The Unequal Use Of Diverse Models In The Fashion Industry
When we think about tokenism in fashion imagery, we normally discuss the unequal proportion of white models compared to models of colour. Unfortunately, this is only one part of the problem. Fashion imagery is traditionally used by brands to sell the ‘ideal woman’. Narrow ideas exclude the majority of the population, disregarding millions who don’t fit the rigid ideals set by the industry. From time to time, fashion brands will use plus-size models or models of different abilities to again, appear ‘diverse’ to the consumer.
Image 1: Chloé Spring 2018 Ad Campaign
Rigorous casting ensures that 99.9% of models in the industry fit specific criteria. According to UK Models, high fashion models must be; “between 5’8” and 5’11” with a 6-8 dress size and a 34″-24″-34″ bust, waist and hip measurement” (Model Requirements: Do you have what it takes?, 2017). Any model who is above these measurements is considered to be plus-size for high fashion standards. The unequal use of diverse models in high fashion imagery creates the idea that there is only one ‘ideal’ body type.
These narrow views can lead to serious mental health issues such as eating disorders and body dysmorphia, with “eating disorders having the highest mortality rate of any mental health illness” (Epidemiology of eating disorders: Incidence, prevalence and mortality rates, 2012: 406). By frequently including models of all body types instead of using them as ‘diversity tokens’, the fashion industry can begin to promote self-love and acceptance for those struggling with body image or body dysmorphia. By seeing themselves represented in fashion publications, young adults can grow up normalising all types of bodies and can create healthier relationships with their bodies.
Vogue’s March 2017 cover included a group of diverse models, including Ashley Graham who became the first plus-size model to be featured on a Vogue cover. She was later featured in her cover shoot for the magazine in January 2020.
Image 3: Ashley Graham and Justin Ervin modeling for Vogue 2020
Image 2: Ashley Graham on the Cover of Vogue 2020
But it's not just plus-size models who aren't given opportunities in the fashion industry, and disabled models are rarely used in high fashion imagery. Disabilities are hidden within fashion as they still don't fit the industry's rigid view on what the 'ideal' body should look like. Again this leads to adolescents growing up with a disability to create an unhealthy relationship with their body, often growing to resent their disability.
However, although it is important to recognise that diversity in fashion imagery is disappointingly low, more brands are beginning to cast models of all sizes, shapes, and abilities. For example, in 2020, 18-year-old British model Ellie Goldstein starred in Gucci's new beauty editorial, featured in Vogue Italia. The model, who was born with Down syndrome, is represented by the modelling agency 'Zebedee Management', who specialise in representing diverse models of all abilities.
Image 4: Ellie Goldstein for Gucci Beauty
With more well-known companies such as Gucci using diverse models of all abilities, the fashion industry can begin to normalise using all types of models for high fashion imagery. Disabled bodies shouldn’t be hidden by the fashion industry. Celebrating our differences is incredibly powerful and allows us to feel confident in our own skin. By embracing all models, whatever their skin colour, ability, body shape, or size may be, we can begin to establish true diversity and acceptance within the fashion industry.
Bibliography:
Amy Bebbington. (2017) Model Requirements: Do You Have What It Takes? [viewed 08/07/2020] url: <https://www.ukmodels.co.uk/blog/model-requirements-do-you-have-what-it-takes/>
Smink, F. E., van Hoeken, D., & Hoek, H. W. (2012). Epidemiology of eating disorders: Incidence, prevalence and mortality rates. Current Psychiatry Reports,14(4), 406-414.
Image 1: Steven Meisel (2018) Chloé Spring 2018 Ad Campaign [viewed 09/07/2020] url: <https://fashionista.com/2018/01/chloe-spring-2018-ad-campaign>
Image 2: Annie Leibovitz (2019) Ashley Graham Vogue 2020 [viewed 09/07/2020] url: <https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-7763995/Ashley-Graham-shows-baby-bump-poses-solo-Vogue-cover.html>
Image 3: Annie Leibovitz (2019) Ashley Graham Vogue 2020 [viewed 09/07/2020] url: <https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-7763995/Ashley-Graham-shows-baby-bump-poses-solo-Vogue-cover.html>
Image 4: David PD Hyde (2020) Gucci Beauty [viewed 09/07/2020] url:<https://en.vogue.me/beauty/gucci-beauty-campaign-ellie-goldstein/>
Editor: Lacey Wint
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