5 Must Watch Designers from London Fashion Week A/W 21/22
London Fashion Week (LFW) this year took place from the 19th – 23rd of February. With the chaos of the pandemic, London designers inevitably faced the challenge of having to communicate their collection digitally. And yes, despite fashion week looking and feeling very different this year to the usual magical spectacle, LFW still lived up to expectations. After all, London is known for being avant-garde and this fashion week was no different with a number of incredibly talented designers, including up-and-coming ones all pushing the boundaries and realms of creativity. The best bit? You could experience it from the comfort of your home.
However, perhaps the most exciting element was that for the first time in nearly 40 years, LFW was a gender-neutral event! What this meant was that menswear, womenswear and gender-free designers were able to all showcase their styles together. A big moment in history as historically menswear and womenswear designers were showcased separately.
I thoroughly enjoyed LFW this year, and even in this strange time, I felt that this season was a true testament to the vivid imagination and creativity that London is known for. You'll find below 5 of my favourite designers and their collections:
1. Maxxij
A personal favourite for a reason, Maxxij is a London College of Fashion graduate and a South Korean designer. After being crowned ‘Best designer’ at Seoul Fashion Week 2020, he made his debut as part of London Fashion Week SS21.
As a designer Maxxij, focuses on experiential craftsmanship of design with a futuristic soulful aesthetic. For the 2021 autumn/winter collection, MAXXIJ presents a soulful collection called “future blood.” The collection focused entirely on menswear structure and detailing and captured the beauty of the future generation. In Maxxij’s fashion film, models emerge from the depths and shadows of what seems to be a warehouse and boldly strut in an oversized puffer jacket, mutated coloured trench coats and distressed denim jackets and pants. I also loved the subtle yet noticeable hints of steel blue and yellow – it added that perfect pop of colour to the collection.
2. 16Arlington
The cult London label puts to play the idea of glamour with an infectious eccentricity. Hailed by British Vogue as the cool girl’s go-to for ‘conversation-starting evening-wear, 16Arlington proposes a maximalist fashion language that expertly, deliciously negotiates the boundaries of trash - as well as a deeply accomplished skill for pattern cutting and hand-embroidery.
Designed by real-life couple, Marco Capaldo and Federica Cavenati, the brand is situated in the belief ‘design for a good time’; clothes with stories to tell the morning after. Capaldo and Cavenati have designed for incredible women around the world including Lady Gaga, Lizzo, Jennifer Lopez and Jorja Smith.
16Arlington’s AW21 Collection combines everything fun, glamorous, bold yet sophisticated. The collection plays on different bold colours, textures and silhouettes that so seamlessly come together to paint the narrative of fearless women and provocation. The integration of feathers, patterns and hand-embroidery adds another dimension altogether to the collection. The ‘extra look’ and pop of colour is something we all need post-pandemic!
3. Palmer Harding
Designers Matthew Harding and Levi Palmer met while studying at Central Saint Martins in 2007. Wanting to express their creativity in a garment that applied to the daily life of the women that surrounded them led the duo to utilise the shirt as a template for creativity. The pair experiment with innovative pattern cutting and draping techniques cultivated through their design education to build directional and desirable collections that constantly evolve the idea of what a shirt can be.
What I love is that the brand is worn by independent, intelligent and influential women from a broad age, nationality and size demographic. Palmer Harding is situated in the idea of conceptualising an easy yet design-driven wardrobe that forms an essential part of their lifestyle.
In these tough times right now, I love that the spring 21 collection is inspired by the emotions of falling in love. Palmer Harding’s fashion film is soft, delicate and plays on the shapes of the garments with the free-hanging string details. Almost like a dream, the garments are sophisticated, clean yet radiate a sense of fierceness and confidence. There is a gentle energy that translates through the screen and embodies the collection.
4. Roksanda
A MA Womenswear Central Saint Martins graduate, in over a decade since founding her label, Roksanda has evolved and created an unmistakeable woman-centred design aesthetic. As a woman that designs consciously for women, in her own words, Roksanda creates pieces that reveal a woman’s personality while providing a sense of shelter and refuge through their unique design.
With standout colour blocking, sculptural shapes, modern, distinctive cuts and her innovative use of fabrics and unerring attention to detail make up what are now Roksanda’s signature ready-to-wear and accessories. Roksanda’s AW21 collection is no different and I love how smoothly it exudes a sophisticated, feminine yet playful and effortless persona. With a dedicated focus on craftsmanship, the shapes of the garments are entirely unique and not to mention that the choice of bold colours truly adds to the appeal and charm of the garments. An incredibly recognisable collection!
5. Carlota Barrera
Another favourite, Spain-born and London based designer, Carlota Barrera is a 2018 MA London College of Fashion graduate. Carlota explores core contemporary garments through a female gaze inspired by Spanish heritage, queer history and the evolving gender identities. Drawing deep inspiration from the complex shapes and movement of the male body, Barrera’s queer female gaze allows her to view intellectually and artistically, seeing masculinity and male sexuality - the emotions, the forms, the behaviours, socially what it means to identify as male.
There is something powerful and mysterious about Carlota’s AW21 collection. The garments play on the shape of the classic silhouette which so seamlessly creates a fluid, contemporary design. The cuts being inspired by the masculine persona, add that layer of boldness and strength. I also loved the bright orange hues throughout the fashion film which truly added to the vibrance of the collection. Elegant and powerful!
Editor: Lacey Wint